New Project!! Cocoa Brown Civil War Working Dress

Alright, first project I am going to share with you during my progress is the VERY recent undertaking (as in I made the decision and spent the moolah within the last hour) is a new, *ahem* larger, Civil War era, approx 1858-186whenever generic working woman's dress.  A chores dress.  I may add a little middle class flair in that the gorgeous cocoa brown fabric I bought is quite light and fluttery, almost a gauzy texture and weight.  I bought a crap load of imitation silk grosgrain ribbon... in cocoa brown...  a while back to go with a brown & turqoise 'better dress' or 'summer dress', and still am swimming in yards of it.  Not to mention, I love hand pleating ribbon ruching... it is ever so very satisfying to tell people 'I did it BY HAND'

The initial breakdown of material cost is as such:

8 Yds Coco brown 'Keepsake Calico Print' for the body of the dress- $4/yd  (orig. 7.99, 50% coupon)
2 Yds 44" Bleached muslin for bodice lining and collar- $2.99/yd
Hooks & Eyes approx $4 (drawing from my already ginormous stash of them)
Thread approx $3 for a giant spool of everyday sewing thread
Thread approx $3 for cotton hand quilting thread to attach h&e & top stitching
Thread approx $2 for heavy 'buttonhole' thread for whip stitching skirt pleats to waistband

Most of the threads you will be able to get multiple projects out of.  My overall initial cost was less than $50.  My favorite place for fabrics is JoAnn's.  GET ON THEIR MAILING LIST!  This first week of June brought an AMAZIN' 50% off coupon, ALONGSIDE the regular 40% off, AS WELL as a 10% off your entire purchase coupon.  Indeed, I made off like a frikken Bandit today.

Now here's the fun part- I have to draft this pattern.  Out of a book.  Yep, I said draft.  I am done with spending $15 for a stinking paper pattern.  At Hartford City, IN last year, I picked up an amazing book of patterns entitled '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' by Kristina Seleshanko.  I paid $15 for the entire book...  of 60 patterns  From Peterson's Magazine.  Yes, many are a little ritzy for my mid working class seamstress character, however the actual patterns are just the basic construction pieces, which means you can do any-thing-you-want with them to adapt it to your needs.  She writes in her prologue to use a photo copier at 100% and enlarge the pieces, but I draft mine by hand with a yardstick, ruler and French curve (you can get a FC at most fabric and art stores for under $10)  She has two patterns that I absolutely adore from 1860.  I am quite torn between the two, but am thinking I shall use the coco brown for the most basic 'New Style for High Body'... a very basic fitted/darted bodice with a 'straight sleeve with elbow' (coat sleeve)  It leaves endless possibilities for decoration, including trim additions, or perhaps a puff or two, or even an epaulette for each sleeve.  I am fixed on just getting this sucker done for the upcoming Train Robbery on the 10th (SUNDAY), so I shall probably wind up riding the train in a trimless, basic dress, but is it that bad?  Nope.  Actually pretty authentic.

I do highly recommend the '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' book, as in the very beginning she does indeed give some pretty good plain-English normal person explanations into how to draft, enlarge, or reduce patterns.  It does take some practice, but that's why cheap muslin is nice!  ALWAYS make a mock-up with your muslin FIRST, especially when drafting!

So for now, I am going to let your brains process this starting information, look up that book, and anxiously await photos and updates as I GET TO WORK!  I've got 5.5 days to get this sucker done...  I so can do this!  (I've done it in 2...)