Well, it's been all week since an update because it took every second I had not working my day job to get this dress ready to wear! Overall I think I clocked somewhere between 25 & 30 hours which is about typical for a half hand-half machine stitched two piece dress! I gauged the skirt by hand in period fashion, folding the top edge to proper length vs putting a giant hem in the bottom. I added a 5" kick guard, and bound the bottom edge with black twill tape, which should make this a nice long wearing skirt indeed! I did find it just a bit too long today at the Lebanon, OH train robbery event, which is easily remedied by a 2" growth pleat all 'round it.
I also added a lovely and super simple basic crocheted collar that I whipped up in 45 minutes (Seriously!) Here's the link:
Simple crocheted cotton collar
Remember that the pattern is termed in AUS terms, so when you see 'treble' or 'tr', they mean in US DOUBLE crochet stitch, 'dc' is SINGLE, and 'dbtr' is a regular TREBLE. otherwise you will have quite the goofy looking clown collar! I left out the Treble stitch last row, narrowing the collar a bit and left the edges squared off which looks quite charming on my cocoa dress :)
I very much am thinking of slapping together some of the less involved items such as slat bonnets and crocheted collars and etc. to take to events to sell as a fund raiser for two of the living history groups I am part of.
So, I am calling this first chapter of my blog closed, and will be from here on out posting tips and advice on period sewing methods.
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Monday, June 4, 2012
A Wonderful One-Hour Slat Bonnet
In yet another bipolar midnight pattern hunting mania, and a scramble to figure out a head covering for an event only 5 days away, I managed to come across a FREE Slat Bonnet pattern and instructions... Literally you just draw lines to the measurements provided for the sizing you need, and voila! You have a mere 2 piece pattern for an excellent 19th C. Slat Bonnet. I kept finding references to this mysterious pattern, but all the links were broken, until I finally came upon the original site and there it was! You have to scroll a bit to get to them but there are free and easy to
follow drafting and sewing instructions for not only the bonnet, but for several 19th C. clothing
items!
http://www.thesewingacademy.com/the-compendium/
The bonnet itself was easy as cake, and can be machine stitched (recommended unless you are a hand sewing junkie!) You can use the stiff particle type board from say, the back of an artist pad of paper, or some other heavy duty compressed type board or thin wooden shims for the slats. OR, you can do as I did and make it quilted instead, using a double layer of thin cotton quilt batting. The first Slat I ever had was quilted instead of slatted, and let me tell you, it is both period appropriate as well as a little more comfortable and practical as it's soft, and you can easily fold the long brim back when you need to see. Not saying you HAVE to quilt it instead, but it certainly is an option! The pattern is made in such a fashion that you can also forgo the slat bonnetness and use it to make a simple hood.
Since it is not 1:30am and I have no good lighting, I shall post photos a little later on
http://www.thesewingacademy.com/the-compendium/
The bonnet itself was easy as cake, and can be machine stitched (recommended unless you are a hand sewing junkie!) You can use the stiff particle type board from say, the back of an artist pad of paper, or some other heavy duty compressed type board or thin wooden shims for the slats. OR, you can do as I did and make it quilted instead, using a double layer of thin cotton quilt batting. The first Slat I ever had was quilted instead of slatted, and let me tell you, it is both period appropriate as well as a little more comfortable and practical as it's soft, and you can easily fold the long brim back when you need to see. Not saying you HAVE to quilt it instead, but it certainly is an option! The pattern is made in such a fashion that you can also forgo the slat bonnetness and use it to make a simple hood.
Since it is not 1:30am and I have no good lighting, I shall post photos a little later on
Cocoa Dress Update #1
Well, here I sit, 8 hours after starting the washing, pressing, drafting, cutting and finally starting on stitching... and the bodice is 60% finished. I do admit, I'm doing nearly everything by machine, but you need to consider, I play a dressmaker's apprentice/dressmaker, who has a fancy newfangled treadle machine. Soooo, I can get away with a lot. I have yet to attach the hooks and eyes, which I will do one at a time by hand for sturdiness, and one more sleeve to go. I decided to do a 'high waist' with Bishop sleeves, very full, bushy, pleated Bishop sleeves. And it looks ASTOUNDING in this fabric! I will also be adding a plain white cotton collar. The skirt, well, I had enough fabric left after the bodice pieces to cut 4 extra long panels, so I have room to add decorative and functional Growth Pleats, and an extra deep hem. (I'm only 5'4"... lol) I do intend on whip stitching knife pleats to a waist and making the rear slightly longer than the front in period fashion.
But there you have it, your first update! I'm off to bed now, as I do have this thing called a 'job' that I must tend to tomorrow :)
But there you have it, your first update! I'm off to bed now, as I do have this thing called a 'job' that I must tend to tomorrow :)
New Project!! Cocoa Brown Civil War Working Dress
Alright, first project I am going to share with you during my progress is the VERY recent undertaking (as in I made the decision and spent the moolah within the last hour) is a new, *ahem* larger, Civil War era, approx 1858-186whenever generic working woman's dress. A chores dress. I may add a little middle class flair in that the gorgeous cocoa brown fabric I bought is quite light and fluttery, almost a gauzy texture and weight. I bought a crap load of imitation silk grosgrain ribbon... in cocoa brown... a while back to go with a brown & turqoise 'better dress' or 'summer dress', and still am swimming in yards of it. Not to mention, I love hand pleating ribbon ruching... it is ever so very satisfying to tell people 'I did it BY HAND'
The initial breakdown of material cost is as such:
8 Yds Coco brown 'Keepsake Calico Print' for the body of the dress- $4/yd (orig. 7.99, 50% coupon)
2 Yds 44" Bleached muslin for bodice lining and collar- $2.99/yd
Hooks & Eyes approx $4 (drawing from my already ginormous stash of them)
Thread approx $3 for a giant spool of everyday sewing thread
Thread approx $3 for cotton hand quilting thread to attach h&e & top stitching
Thread approx $2 for heavy 'buttonhole' thread for whip stitching skirt pleats to waistband
Most of the threads you will be able to get multiple projects out of. My overall initial cost was less than $50. My favorite place for fabrics is JoAnn's. GET ON THEIR MAILING LIST! This first week of June brought an AMAZIN' 50% off coupon, ALONGSIDE the regular 40% off, AS WELL as a 10% off your entire purchase coupon. Indeed, I made off like a frikken Bandit today.
Now here's the fun part- I have to draft this pattern. Out of a book. Yep, I said draft. I am done with spending $15 for a stinking paper pattern. At Hartford City, IN last year, I picked up an amazing book of patterns entitled '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' by Kristina Seleshanko. I paid $15 for the entire book... of 60 patterns From Peterson's Magazine. Yes, many are a little ritzy for my mid working class seamstress character, however the actual patterns are just the basic construction pieces, which means you can do any-thing-you-want with them to adapt it to your needs. She writes in her prologue to use a photo copier at 100% and enlarge the pieces, but I draft mine by hand with a yardstick, ruler and French curve (you can get a FC at most fabric and art stores for under $10) She has two patterns that I absolutely adore from 1860. I am quite torn between the two, but am thinking I shall use the coco brown for the most basic 'New Style for High Body'... a very basic fitted/darted bodice with a 'straight sleeve with elbow' (coat sleeve) It leaves endless possibilities for decoration, including trim additions, or perhaps a puff or two, or even an epaulette for each sleeve. I am fixed on just getting this sucker done for the upcoming Train Robbery on the 10th (SUNDAY), so I shall probably wind up riding the train in a trimless, basic dress, but is it that bad? Nope. Actually pretty authentic.
I do highly recommend the '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' book, as in the very beginning she does indeed give some pretty good plain-English normal person explanations into how to draft, enlarge, or reduce patterns. It does take some practice, but that's why cheap muslin is nice! ALWAYS make a mock-up with your muslin FIRST, especially when drafting!
So for now, I am going to let your brains process this starting information, look up that book, and anxiously await photos and updates as I GET TO WORK! I've got 5.5 days to get this sucker done... I so can do this! (I've done it in 2...)
The initial breakdown of material cost is as such:
8 Yds Coco brown 'Keepsake Calico Print' for the body of the dress- $4/yd (orig. 7.99, 50% coupon)
2 Yds 44" Bleached muslin for bodice lining and collar- $2.99/yd
Hooks & Eyes approx $4 (drawing from my already ginormous stash of them)
Thread approx $3 for a giant spool of everyday sewing thread
Thread approx $3 for cotton hand quilting thread to attach h&e & top stitching
Thread approx $2 for heavy 'buttonhole' thread for whip stitching skirt pleats to waistband
Most of the threads you will be able to get multiple projects out of. My overall initial cost was less than $50. My favorite place for fabrics is JoAnn's. GET ON THEIR MAILING LIST! This first week of June brought an AMAZIN' 50% off coupon, ALONGSIDE the regular 40% off, AS WELL as a 10% off your entire purchase coupon. Indeed, I made off like a frikken Bandit today.
Now here's the fun part- I have to draft this pattern. Out of a book. Yep, I said draft. I am done with spending $15 for a stinking paper pattern. At Hartford City, IN last year, I picked up an amazing book of patterns entitled '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' by Kristina Seleshanko. I paid $15 for the entire book... of 60 patterns From Peterson's Magazine. Yes, many are a little ritzy for my mid working class seamstress character, however the actual patterns are just the basic construction pieces, which means you can do any-thing-you-want with them to adapt it to your needs. She writes in her prologue to use a photo copier at 100% and enlarge the pieces, but I draft mine by hand with a yardstick, ruler and French curve (you can get a FC at most fabric and art stores for under $10) She has two patterns that I absolutely adore from 1860. I am quite torn between the two, but am thinking I shall use the coco brown for the most basic 'New Style for High Body'... a very basic fitted/darted bodice with a 'straight sleeve with elbow' (coat sleeve) It leaves endless possibilities for decoration, including trim additions, or perhaps a puff or two, or even an epaulette for each sleeve. I am fixed on just getting this sucker done for the upcoming Train Robbery on the 10th (SUNDAY), so I shall probably wind up riding the train in a trimless, basic dress, but is it that bad? Nope. Actually pretty authentic.
I do highly recommend the '60 Civil War Era Fashion Patterns' book, as in the very beginning she does indeed give some pretty good plain-English normal person explanations into how to draft, enlarge, or reduce patterns. It does take some practice, but that's why cheap muslin is nice! ALWAYS make a mock-up with your muslin FIRST, especially when drafting!
So for now, I am going to let your brains process this starting information, look up that book, and anxiously await photos and updates as I GET TO WORK! I've got 5.5 days to get this sucker done... I so can do this! (I've done it in 2...)
Hello everyone! Through much begging and pleading from several reenacting compadres, let this begin a beautiful moshing of Humor and Expertise regarding making your own historical clothing, and defarbing existing pieces already in your closet.
My disclaimer is, however, I've never gone to school for this crap, it's all stuff I've had to learn in order to participate in this AMAZING hobby since 2000. I started sewing with my mom when I was 9, my first piece ever was that crazy un-authentic Simplicity 'colonial' Halloween costume... then yet another Civil War soldier costume (in polyester, no less, haha) But since, I have grown and been taught, and learned, and advised many ladies- and guys, too- in period sewing techniques, accuracy, and all sorts of goodness. I have made period clothing for ladies from the Cincinnati History Museum and Heritage Village Museum of Historic Southwest Ohio, as well as a bunch of stuff for myself and friends.
Please do not take me for some 'stitch nazi', my goal here is to share knowledge so those who are in my same financial reenacting boat can successfully have a great impression without blowing the checkbook out of the water :)
Feedback is very welcome, but please keep it civil! I'm not an expert by ANY means, so just sit back and enjoy the goodies I post for do's and don'ts and this crap sucks/rocks, and whatnot in plain human language vs. technical terms which might as well be Greek even to me. Cheers!
My disclaimer is, however, I've never gone to school for this crap, it's all stuff I've had to learn in order to participate in this AMAZING hobby since 2000. I started sewing with my mom when I was 9, my first piece ever was that crazy un-authentic Simplicity 'colonial' Halloween costume... then yet another Civil War soldier costume (in polyester, no less, haha) But since, I have grown and been taught, and learned, and advised many ladies- and guys, too- in period sewing techniques, accuracy, and all sorts of goodness. I have made period clothing for ladies from the Cincinnati History Museum and Heritage Village Museum of Historic Southwest Ohio, as well as a bunch of stuff for myself and friends.
Please do not take me for some 'stitch nazi', my goal here is to share knowledge so those who are in my same financial reenacting boat can successfully have a great impression without blowing the checkbook out of the water :)
Feedback is very welcome, but please keep it civil! I'm not an expert by ANY means, so just sit back and enjoy the goodies I post for do's and don'ts and this crap sucks/rocks, and whatnot in plain human language vs. technical terms which might as well be Greek even to me. Cheers!
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